Brave New World
Wayne de Nicolo samples the flagship wines of South America
Above: Catena Zapata
South America is under-rated in the UK as a producer of fine wines. To demonstrate that the region is capable of producing wines in the Premier League, I sought the top wines from several leading wineries in Chile and Argentina, made variously from one or more of the following grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Carmenere, and Malbec.
Distinguished Chilean producer Errazuriz makes two ultra-premium wines. Viñedo Chadwick (£30; selected Waitrose stores) is named after Alfonso Chadwick Errazuriz, a celebrated polo champion. Produced in the Maipo Valley near Santiago, the stylish 2002 is mid-weight with cherries, berry fruit and prominent tannins. It is outclassed by excellent stable-mate Seña (£40;
www.wheelercellars.co.uk) from 2003, a better vintage in Chile. Rich, ripe and smooth. Blackcurrant from the Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the refined palate.
Maipo-produced Casa Real 2003 (£25,
Berkmann Wines 0207 609 4711) is the icon of well-known bodega Santa Rita. The pure Cabernet Sauvignon fruit shows in the classic blackcurrant, cedar, oak flavours and prominent tannins. As with most of these wines, to drink it now would be the equivalent of casting Daniel Radcliffe as the next James Bond, but its real class will emerge with time. Sister wine Triple C 2004 (£20; also Berkmanns) is no less impressive, with rounded bramble flavours. This will develop beautifully, as my recent tasting of the 1997 showed.
The following four wines are produced as joint ventures with the ubiquitous French wine consultant Michel Rolland. All are impressive. Casa Lapostolle, best known here for its highly regarded Cuvée Alexandre Merlot, produces Clos Apalta (£37.50- £40;
www.everywine.co.uk, Fortnums). Made only in exceptional years from 60-year-old vines in the Colchagua Valley, Chile, the 2003 has chocolate, mocha and cranberry flavours with a hint of molasses.
Iscay (£27-29;
www.everywine.co.uk, Gaucho 020 7734 4040) is the standard-bearer of excellent Mendoza winery Trapiche. Made using traditional methods and native yeasts, the 2004 reveals smooth, buttoned-down earthy, tarry fruit that needs four or five years to open up. Expect then a complex wine of distinction.
Although not yet available here, Val de Flores 2003 warrants mention. It epitomises the best from Argentina. Opulence, velvety smoothness and complexity characterise the dark, earthy, plums and chocolate palate of this delicious wine made from old-vine Malbec. Superb. Yacochuya 2003 (£28.50;
www.frw.co.uk) is quite something. From very old vines growing in mountainous Cafayate (Salta) at an extraordinary 6,600 feet, and with 16 per cent alcohol, this incredibly dark crimson/black Malbec has intense, complex dark fruit and the potential to be magnificent.
Cheval des Andes 2002 (£36-45;
www.frw.co.uk, Harrods) is another Argentine wine with a French connection. I wrote about it in February’s SW. However, failing to mention it here would be like Hamlet without the prince, as this is a great wine. Eight months on it is evolving beautifully. Rich chocolates and figs; voluptuous and complex. And still irresistible.
For me Catena has always been among the very best of Argentine producers with quality wines across its range. Its flagship, Zapata (£40;
www.bibendum-wine.co.uk), maintains this standard among the Argentine elite. The 2002 (an outstanding vintage) is smooth, ripe, complex and beautifully balanced, with a hint of sweetness in its gorgeous, concentrated red- and blackcurrant. This is the equal of first growth Bordeaux, at less than 20 per cent of the price.
Wayne de Nicolo (
www.words4sale.co.uk)