Deep, Dark and Intense
Wayne de Nicolo examines the history and fine wines of Chateau Lagrezette in south-west France
Above: Chateau Lagrezette
This is not an article about a handsome French philosopher, but a notable chateau and vineyard in Cahors, south-west France – Chateau Lagrezette. Records show that as early as the 7th century the vineyards of this area produced wines that were admired by the Bishop of Verdun, in the 13th century by the English occupiers of Guyenne and, hundreds of years later, by Peter the Great. Their famous “black” wines were seen as so much of a threat to the wines of Bordeaux that Louis XVI had to intervene to end a conflict between the winemakers of the two regions.
The history of the chateau itself is no less colourful. Built in the 15th century on the foundations of a 12th century fortified house using medieval architecture and Renaissance ornamentation, it was owned by a succession of distinguished families before being purchased in 1980 by Alain Dominique Perrin, former President of Cartier, and his wife.
By this time decades of neglect meant that the building was in poor shape and the vines were withering away. They embarked on a lengthy and expensive programme of renovation. This restored the former magnificence of the chateau and its gardens and elevated the quality of the wines produced – perhaps to even higher levels than ever before. The property has attracted famous guests such as Richard Gere and Tony Blair and his family on one of their notorious holiday jaunts!
Nowadays the wines are made and stored in cellars excavated beneath the chateau grounds, up to19 metres deep and 55 metres long. Most of the vineyards are planted with the dominant grape of the area, Malbec (Cahors wines must have at least 70% of this), with Merlot accounting for most of the rest. All the grapes are picked and sorted manually. The winemaking is overseen by the ubiquitous Michel Rolland, whose style of deep coloured wines with concentrated, fruit-driven flavours stands out.
Low yielding Malbec vines from a 2.7 hectare vineyard produce the top wine of the range of five, Le Pigeonnier.
Only 6-7,000 bottles are made per year and they each fetch an eye-watering £80 here. Robert Parker has awarded the 2001 vintage 95 points. Next down is Cuvee Dame Honneur. I tasted the 2002 (£35), and this is where the darkness and intensity come in. It is black wine indeed, not just in colour but taste too. High extraction produces deep, earthy, chocolate and liquorice flavours, and yet, despite prominent oak and tannins, it is soft and already approachable. Nonetheless it is some years from its best. There is an element of bitterness here too, a feature of some Malbecs, which will not appeal to everyone – but this adds to its complexity – and Bordeaux-lovers will approve.
Number three, Chateau Lagrezette 2004, is not dissimilar, having plums, cranberries, bitter chocolate and a lick of mocha on the palate. Again this is a mix of old and new world styles, with deep, concentrated fruit but an earthy complexity. At £18 it is inevitably a little less impressive, but represents better value. Keep for 5+ years. All three wines are available at Harrods and Patridges.
Wayne de Nicolo is a freelance copywriter (www.words4sale.co.uk)
From Rhone to Rioja
Chapoutier Condrieu Invitare ‘06
This viognier comes from a leading North Rhone grower, and the class shows. A lovely fruity nose and golden colour herald a smooth palate of soft, apricot fruit. £22, Forman Wickes, 020 8946 1240. Free delivery in the SW area.
Klein Constantia KC Cabernet Merlot ‘04
An uncomplicated, yet stylish and enjoyable South African red, tasting of cassis and plums. The tannins suggest it will improve over the years, but will go well with food now. £9-10, www.oxfordwine.co.uk
Roda I ‘03 and ‘04
Rioja, but not as we know it. Bodegas Roda is making a name for itself with its intense wines. The still youthful ‘03 has sweet, ripe raspberry and plum fruit. The ‘04 (a better year) is a cut above, with a classy nose and excellent, rounded plum and dark berry flavours. Quite tannic,will develop. £27, Forman Wickes, as above.
Cobaw Ridge Chardonnay ‘03
Classical big, rich Aussie chardonnay. Smooth, mature peaches and cream mix with refined French oak flavours. Top class. £20, www.whirlywine.co.uk
Brick Kiln McLaren Vale Shiraz ‘04
Another Aussie beauty offering blackberries, chocolate and pastilles on a velvety, seductive palate. Surprisingly forward and ready for drinking. £19.50, www.whirlywine.co.uk