Kiwi class

Wayne de Nicolo assesses the quality of New Zealand winemaking in 2008

Reflecting on my experience at the annual New Zealand Winegrowers Fair in January I came to the conclusion that the country’s wine industry has come of age. NZ has only existed as a producer of serious, widely appreciated wines for about 30 years. For much of that time it has been known mainly for having some of the finest sauvignon blancs in the world, as the home of Cloudy Bay, and, more recently, for its great pinot noirs. In reality the Kiwis have, for many years, also been producing some very fine chardonnays and other white varietals. So why the revelation? First, I found amongst the 700 wines on offer an unexpectedly high number of terrific wines made from the big red grape varieties like cabernet sauvignon. Historically these have mostly been tight and under-ripe. No longer. Secondly, of the nearly 70 wines I tasted there was hardly one dud. I would be happy to pay to drink almost all of them (something

I couldn’t say after most other tastings I go to). Others have noticed too. Exports to the UK increased by 36% in 2007.

There are undoubtedly many reasons for this evolution, including the willingness of Kiwis to try new ways of doing things – to push the boundaries. This derives from the frontier society mentality of the first settlers 170 years ago. It is still subtly evident today. Hence producers are always experimenting with viticulture and winemaking techniques, and looking for new regions that will produce top quality wines from particular varietals. This has been especially apparent in recent years in Central Otago, which I shall be writing about next month. But no one is standing still. Winemaker John Forrest told me that growers are now being drawn to North Otago because its limestone-rich soil lends wines an earthy mineral character, and the longer Autumn growing period allows better ripening.

Elsewhere the main growing areas are Auckland (including Waiheke Island), Gisborne, Hawkes Bay, Wairarapa, Nelson, Marlborough and North Canterbury. Each has its own individual soil, climate and geographical features that suit particular varietals and lend distinctive characteristics to its wines. Thus the Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay was just a dried up riverbed until local grower and pilot Chris Pask spotted its potential when flying over. He decided in 1981 to take a punt on his theory that the alluvial stones would heat up during the day, increase temperatures generally, and enable him to ripen cabernet grapes that would not ripen in his other vineyards. He was right. By the 1990s the major players had moved in and Bordeaux style wines are now being made there to wide acclaim.

Waipara, little known here, illustrates the diversity of geography and styles. Set amidst the fertile patchwork plains of North Canterbury, it does chardonnays and aromatic whites very well. The most successful winery is Pegasus Bay. Owned and run by surgeon Ivan Donaldson and his family, it is known not only for its fine wines and food, but also its opera and pop music evenings in the winery grounds. This versatile, friendly establishment typifies the Kiwi approach to the whole wine experience.

Wayne de Nicolo is a freelance copywriter (www.words4sale.co.uk)

Anything but Sauvignon Blanc!

Chardonnays

Made from top class fruit, all these are built to last and should be kept until 4+ years old to enjoy them at their best.

Coopers Creek Swamp Reserve 2006 Peachy nose, creamy stone fruit. Stylish. (£15, www.berkmann.co.uk)

Seresin Reserve 2005

Guavas and ripe peaches front the rich fruit on this lovely wine.

(£17, www.armit.co.uk)

Pegasus Bay 2006

Refined, restrained, complex, with pronounced acidity. (£15.50,

The Grape Shop, Northcote Road SW11)

Amor-Bendall Reserve 2004

Delicious, ripe, tropical fruit with nut and toast undertones from 40% new oak. (£12.50, Bibo Wines 020 7602 7793)

Gem Gisborne 2005

Soft, clean palate of nectarines and white plums; some minerality. (£16, Bibo)

Other Varietals

Amor-Bendall Gewurtztraminer 2004

Very perfumed nose, ripe lychee fruit with a lick of ginger; just off-dry (£12.50 , Bibo)

Hatton Estate Tahi Cabernet- Merlot-Cabernet Franc 2004

Bordeaux in style; cedar nose; deep, restrained black fruits, prominent tannins. Well made. Keep several years.

(£24, www.coevintners.com)

John Forrest Collection Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2005

Shows slightly subdued, full, spicy plum fruit with a touch of stalkiness. A very polished effort. (£16.50, Adnams Richmond 020 8940 8684)

Alpha Domus The Navigator Merlot-Cabernet 2004

A classic cab-merlot nose leads to sophisticated, complex, full-bodied currant and plum fruit. Excellent. (£12.50-£13 www.cellardoorwines.co.uk, Whole Foods Market 020 7368 4500 )