I recently read an article in National Geographic suggesting that if enough creatures swarm into a space, they instinctively start working towards benefiting the greater mass without even realising it. Perhaps the management of the Butcher and Grill read the same article for a swarm of waiting staff presided over the evening service. However, it would appear that the theory only works when millions are involved rather than a few dozen, as the service was interminably slow.
Service apart, the first impression of this large, riverside venue is positive. It exudes an industrial, clean-cut feel with bare-bricked walls, white-washed ceilings, pillars and pipes, with floors of light ash and robust tables simply laid with tea-cloths for napkins. Nothing in the décor is fussy and nor is the food.As the name suggests, the restaurant prides itself on its meat (it’s even got it’s own butcher’s counter); mostly British and always seasonal. In September then, there are duck rillettes with toasted sour dough and onion marmalade which were excellent, gamey and unctuous, with a satisfying crunch to the bread. Prawn cocktail was a modern twist on a classic but for me was less impressive for the overpowering marie rose sauce – and there really is no excuse for leaving the digestive tract, whether modern or classic! A signature 8oz burger and prime lamb cutlets more than made up for any prawn oversight though, especially when washed down with a bottle of Vielle Vignes Pinot Noir. The accompanying fries were top draw also; crisp, fluffy and well seasoned.
Butcher and Grill is a light-hearted venue, serving good meat with fine wine, and if the swarm of staff are not always running in the right direction, they are at least polite and helpful when they do get to you.
Richard Coltart – pub, bar and restaurant consultant (richardcoltart@hotmail.com)
Place:
39-41 Parkgate Road SW11
(020 7924 3999; www.