The less-than picturesque junction of Clapham Road and Bedford Road holds a great little secret. Behind an innocuous locked wooden door lies the stairway to an adorable garden space leading you to the door of this exclusive-feeling restaurant. Chef Iain Smart of Chez Bruce fame, has created a modern French menu prepared using fantastic seasonal produce and quality ingredients.
Comfortably seated we dove straight in, ordering a house red after a stroll from Clapham Common has left us parched. The waiter swiftly pointed out that they had three, navigating us towards an almost Rose-light glass of French Pinot Noir – perfect for such a sunny day.
Wine in hand my boyfriend and I proceeded to umm and ahh over the menu until we’d come up with a good combination of fish, meat and vegetables to steal and sample from each other. For starters, I plumped for the summery chilled pea soup with truffled mascarpone and chives, while he chose smoked salmon with cucumber, mustard crème fresh and melba toast.
The choice between the bavette steak and braised lamb shoulder had been a tough one for him, but he was most satisfied when devouring the tenderest lamb with olive oil mash, spring greens and salsa verde. I was equally thrilled with my pistachio crusted bream with a sweet tomato broth, courgettes and olives. The portions were perfect – filling without leaving you unable to tackle the all-important desert menu.
And so we rounded off with cheeses from Neal’s Yard Dairy and caramelised apples with caramel sauce and crisp filo pastry. There was a clear reluctance to share on both parts as the caramelised apples were placed in front of me; they were divine, light and not too sweet. Apparently the cheeses were "really good", but I’ll just have to take his word for it!
Victoria Purcell
Place:Four O Nine, 409 Clapham Road SW9 (020 7737 0722)
Feels like: Stylish and elegant
Tastes like: Delicious modern French
Costs: Starters from £5, mains from £13