Konnigans
Above: Konnigans
I first met Kevin Victory, owner then of Scoffers in Battersea and Hudsons in Putney, over 12 years ago. Since then he has opened Konnigans and Global in Wandsworth, and Scoffers Bakery in Battersea, serving delicious artisan bread to the public and his restaurants.
Kevin has always intended to run local, neighbourhood traditional restaurants and this simple, effective philosophy has obviously contributed to his undoubted success. He values integrity, rather than the latest thing, and the fact that his customers come back and back over the years is a testament to his wisdom. He is also a local lad, which means that his customers are very likely to be his friends.
We caught up in Konnigans and agreed that we looked exactly as we did 12 years ago, as you have to. Kevin’s talented chef, Mannish, had just created a new menu, and Vicky and I were delighted to be the first testers. A whole medley of dishes appeared under our noses: starters of gravadlax, a beetroot tsatsiki, foie gras terrine and cod croquette - the beetroot dish was just amazing, pretty, pink, unusual and totally refreshing. Main courses included roast pork, succulent grilled swordfish, melting lamb shank and juicy roast duck with striking accompaniments including slow-cooked tomatoes, grilled mushrooms and a great millefeuille stack of potato and squash. With the lamb came a chorizo coleslaw, an inventive take on sauerkraut, which was savoury, sharp and perfect.
Everything was beautifully presented, somehow familiar but with a special magical touch.
Go and try the new menu at Konnigans – you will be spellbound.
Sarah Hodgson
Place:
Konnigans,
344-346 Old York Road SW18
(020 8871 1496; www.konnigans.co.uk)
Feels like:
Inviting, local, friendly
Tastes like:
Fresh, unusual yet familiar
Costs:
Try the £5 lunch menu for value