It’s quite some way from the leafy streets of Greenwich to the trendy hub of bars and eateries that is the Fulham Road. But the migration has been (relatively) painless for brothers Miguel and Pedro Castelao, who four months ago relocated San Miguel from south east London to the heart of SW territory. And it seems they have received a warm welcome. SW6 residents seeking nourishment after work ensure that on the Wednesday evening we visit, most tables are full, and coveted stools at the bar are filling up fast. Miguel and Pedro’s aim is to provide diners with traditional but imaginative Spanish cuisine, a step-up from standard patatas bravas but just as enjoyable and unpretentious. So whereas discs of chorizo are often served swathed in red wine, here the spicy sausage is cooked in cider and served with aubergine chips and rosemary honey. It is just as good as it sounds. Three chefs man the open kitchen, and between them bring influences from all over Spain. We sampled tender grilled chicken skewers, typical of the Basque region, croquets of meat and vegetable casserole, and wonderfully succulent king prawns with oil, garlic and chilli. The combination of meat and fish in vieiras de la casa (scallops in Fino sherry with shallots and Chistorra sausage) is typical of Catalan cuisine, and the sweet meat of the scallops was perfect with bites of salty pork. A selection of superb Iberian cured meats, roasted potatoes with creamy blue cheese sauce and some rather wonderful grilled lamb cutlets ensured we would have to hang around for a while, to digest and also savour the final drops of a 2001 Rioja. We finally summoned up the power to leave, as the opening chords of Viva España started to play…and decided that we couldn’t agree more.
Vicky Smith
Place: San Miguel, 803 Fulham Road SW6 (020 7471 4895)
Feels like: Your favourite Spanish holiday
Tastes like: Imaginative twist on traditional Spanish fare
Costs: Tapas range from £1.95-£15.95, main courses start at £14.50