Hats off to Anton

Sarah Hodgson doffs her cap to Anton Mossiman, one of the nation’s favourite chefs

Above: Anton Mossiman

At 28, Anton Mosimann became Maitre Chef des Cuisines at The Dorchester in London, an unheard of achievement for one so young. Michelin stars followed making Anton undoubtedly ‘The Boss’ of the 80s’ culinary world. He also invented cuisine naturelle, a healthy approach to cooking and eating, revolutionary in its time.

He now lives in Kensington ‘close to the shop’, where I met him, the shop being Mosimann’s private dining club in Belgravia. He also runs Mosimann’s Academy and Party Service from Battersea and is about to open Chateau Mosimann in Switzerland. He is married to Kathrin and has two sons, Philipp and Mark. With his portrait in the NPG and an OBE to his name, Anton Mosimann had become something of a national treasure but a modest treasure as we found out.

You were born in 1947, so you are coming up to the big 60. Is this an exciting time for you, and what are your plans?
It’s a good question. You have done your homework. Very exciting. I have a big plan actually. What I thought is I will invite people I have worked with over the last 40 years, chefs and colleagues, from all over the world, a festival of chefs.

Will this festival be held in Mosimann’s?
No, at The Dorchester. That’s where I started and that, I think, is where it should be held. A lot of people trained at The Dorchester. They will come back again.

Both your parents were chefs, both working in the kitchen of their restaurant in Switzerland, the country of your birth. Did you know from really early on that food was going to be your career?
Very much so, from really early on, from five or six years of age. I was very lucky. I never looked back. I never wanted to be a pilot or a train driver or whatever kids have dreams of. I just considered being in the food business.

You were lucky to have…
A vision? At an early age. Very lucky.

… and to be able to fulfil it. Do you consider it fulfilled or are you still fulfilling it?
Actually it’s both. It is always being fulfilled. It is very interesting. I have worked in 75 different cities around the world. I have been so lucky. Every place I have enjoyed. I have been travelling all over the world through my profession. And I am still learning. I am one of those people who is never tired of learning – about business, the cultures of different people, different countries. Every morning I get up and I am still excited.

Did you find the 1980s exciting?
People ate much more than they had done, they spent their money on food, wanted to try something new. They travelled more than previously and came back with new ideas which they wanted to try. People were very much in favour of trying something new. It was a great time. But it is still exciting. Yes, very exciting. There is still more to be achieved. Never stand still that is my motto.

You are famously polite, charming, amiable, affable. And then we see these chefs on tv shouting and screaming in their kitchens. Is it necessary?
You are so kind, and no it is not at all necessary. One of the first things I stopped at The Dorchester was shouting screaming and swearing. The work can be done without it. I don’t believe in it.

You are into fitness, perhaps that helps lower your stress levels?
I go jogging every day, just for half an hour, 45 minutes. I do my exercise. It’s about balance. Physically, mentally, food-wise as well.

You also collect books I believe?
Yes I have a large collection. I bought some this morning actually [laughs]. A large collection of cookery books. Going back to 1700, 1800. I keep them in the Academy in Battersea.

I hear you also collect cars?
Yup, it’s a bit of a hobby. I love my old E-type. I love it so much. I drive it, yes, it is such an elegant car. The most elegant car ever produced. I love elegance in that sense. I would not drive a car I do not like. It does not have to be expensive but it has to be fun.

You are about to open Chateau Mosimann in Switzerland. Do you miss Switzerland?
Less and less. I love London. It is my adopted home and I am very happy to be here. I love it for many reasons. My business is here. I have been adopted, as a business, as a person, as a professional. I have wonderful friends here, and am making great friends. There is an enormous choice of good food in London. And I love being in Battersea at The Academy and Party Service. It is such an exciting place. The produce is so fantastic in London, that is one of the reasons I am here. I came here because I was offered the job at The Dorchester but I fell in love with the produce. It cannot get any better. Meat, fish, seafood.

This being November, we must move on to talk about Christmas.
I tell you, I love Christmas. I am a great fan of Christmas. It’s a time when people are in a good mood, celebrating, drinking, eating. I just love the atmosphere. We always make a special effort here [at Mosimann’s] with decorations so it looks very special. We have carol singers, nice music good food and wines. There is a tremendously happy atmosphere. I spend my Christmas here, then we close for 5-6 days. During that time, I stay in London, catch up, take it easier, go out and see friends. My older son will be here. He’s just come back from Singapore. He is also in the business. He is coming with his little boy, just born.

So you are a grandfather, is he your first grandchild?
Yes, my first grandchild. I am a grandfather. I think I am too young to be a grandfather.

www.mosimann.com